If you install your shower pan improperly, you could end up with a shower that is leaky. By following a few simple tips and installing a leak proof shower pan the first time, you will save yourself time and money in the long run. Step 1 - Set the Subfloor You want to make sure that you have a solid subfloor in place. The most commonly thing used is backer board.
A solid sub floor makes it easier to do the rest of the work. Step 2 - Rough Set the Drain This is the first step to ensure that you do not end up with a leaky or poorly drained shower pan. If you rough set the drain higher than the finished floor will be, the water won’t be able to drain properly and will most likely pool on your shower floor, possibly overflowing onto your bathroom floor. Because of this you want to make sure that the drain will be flush with the finished floor. Also make sure that you use a proper shower drain, since it has a secondary, lower drain to catch any water that may seep down.
Step 3 - Slope the Shower Pan Making sure that your shower pan is sloping in towards your drain is essential to stop leaks and making sure water doesn’t pool in the shower pan and eventually spill out to your bathroom floor. You want your floor to slope at least ¼-inch per foot.
Once you have calculated the slope you want, nail ¾ X ¾ inch float strips on the perimeter of the shower pan for guidance. Next, cover the floor with roofing felt and then a layer of wire lath, stapled flat. Step 4 - Apply a Layer of Mortar Because you are applying a thin layer, mix the mortar with a latex additive that will add strength to the mix, rather than water. After mixing the mortar, apply a layer to the shower pan. Allow to dry overnight.
Step 5 - Install the Waterproof Membrane Measure and cut the membrane to fit the shower pan, making sure that you allow for 8 or 9 extra inches so that it can go part way up the walls. Place the membrane in the shower pan, folding down the corners. Cut out the hole for the drain. Once it’s in place, attach the membrane to the wall at the top using staples. Between the layers of your corner folds apply sealant in order to secure the membrane tightly against the wall blocking.
Step 6 - Apply a Second Layer of Mortar Apply the second layer of mortar, once again sloping towards the drain. Leave it to dry. Step 7 - Tile the Shower Pan Apply thinset and then tile your shower pan.
Once you have applied the tiles, then grout. Step 8 - Apply Final Sealant The final step to making your shower pan leak proof is applying the sealant. Use a grout sealer on the tile floor and make sure to regularly reapply to keep your shower pan leak proof. Make sure to maintain the caulk seal along the wall and floor as well.
Custom Shower Pan The foundation layer is the shower pan and there is no substitute for a custom pan, either on top of dirt, wood or concrete. If over wood, a layer of tar paper needs to be put down first with a layer of wire mesh on top of that, stapled down into the subfloor. The first layer of concrete is roughly sloped slightly from the outside edges to the drain, allowed to dry, and then you install a shower pan liner, which comes in a roll. You need a piece large enough to cover the pan and run at least six inches up the wall studs, where it is stapled in place and a hole cut out over the drain. The drain cover flange is installed on top of the vinyl to lock it in place, and any patches, such as piece to piece for larger pans that exceed the width of a roll, can be made with vinyl patch compound and liner-to-liner application.
Afterwards, cover the top with two or three inches of finish concrete mixture, sloping down from the edges to the drain at least 1/4 inch every linear foot. You can use a level, straight edges and a flat trowel to do this part.
Your goal is to mix mud that clumps in your hand but is not wet, merely damp. Create a perimeter that is 3 to 4 inches wide at the height you want, pack it in place, smooth it down and then pack mud in the middle between this perimeter, known as a screed, and the drain.
Then hold a straight edge on top of the drain and on top of the screed and 'cut' the mud out of the middle, sloped to the drain, with slight side-to-side movements as you pull the straightedge backwards. The surface is then smoothed with a flat trowel and allowed to dry for tile application. Underlayment Material Walls require underlayment, which is installed on top of the layer of pan liner that runs up the bottom of the wall studs. This forces any water that soaks through the tile grout will hit the underlayment and run down the wall where it will hit the pan liner and then be forced down into the drain if it ever even reaches that far in the first place before evaporation stops it in its tracks. You can choose from a variety of underlayments ranging from concrete board to vinyl-layered specialty boards that are similar to drywall but have a waterproof vinyl coating that is painted onto the face. The drill holes as well as corners for all material types are filled and covered with silicone caulking and flattened with a putty knife.
Sheet plastic is hung behind concrete board, stapled to the studs, and hanging down to overlap the shower pan liner.
This KBRS is a complete, fully warrantied, fully waterproof system for a fast, easy and durable way to prepare a shower for tiling. This complete kit includes the KBRS and, plus all other components needed for a fully waterproof shower system. Shower components utilize the positive-side waterproofing products to ensure a seamless, leak-proof installation.
Shower Kit Includes:. Customizable ShowerSlope (Cut-to-Fit as Needed). Oatey Tile Shower Drain (with Square Strainer). 3/4' U-Notched Trowel (For Thin-Set Application).
4' x 4' x 61' HardCurb® (Self-Sealing Shower Curb). ShowerSeal® Waterproofing Pack (1GAL Liquid Liner, 2 Tubes Polyurethane Sealant, 1 Roll Gauging Fabric). This instructional video will demonstrate how to install the KBRS, Inc., and how to apply the KBRS waterproofing system to ensure a completely leak-proof system for absolute peace of mind when installing a tile shower. The KBRS Shower Systems is ideal for replacing traditional mortar beds during shower construction. KBRS pre-sloped shower pans offer reassurance with a fast and easy installation. A can be cut-to-fit in the field, making it ideal for on site customization and adjustments for out of square walls. The KBRS can be ordered at any custom size, shape and with any drain location.
KBRS products are similar to the nearly indestructible surfboards used by professional surfers; But Better! Starting with the highest density EPS core available, KBRS is able to engineer a rock solid shower base. The shower base is factory sloped to the drain, and surfaced with two types of composite fibers embedded in an advanced epoxy resin - thus ensuring strength and surface durability.
The flange and curb are fusion welded to the perimeter. Finally, it is coated with an elastomeric primer that allows you to install your tile directly to the surface.
How To Install a Shower Base / Shower Pan By There are many types of shower bases, sometimes called a shower pan, available but some guarantee a more leak-proof installation and are easier to install for do-it-yourselfers. Used for bathroom remodeling include: standard precast bases, custom precast, tile ready and built-on-site tile bases. The standard precast bases and custom precast are the easiest to install for the do-it-yourselfer.
I’ll go over the techniques for installing each type of shower bases. These are the same for shower pan installation. Shower Base / Pan types: A standard precast base is a self-contained, manufactured base that has a curb or curbs, a drain pocket and tile flanges on the sides that don’t have a curb.
It is ready to install and creates a solid, leak proof shower floor. These are manufactured in acrylic, fiberglass and assorted solid surface products. The precast shower base/pan is a perfect choice for the do-it-yourselfer. A custom pre-cast base is similar to the standard pre-cast base except you can get the exact size you need with the drain located in just about any position.You can also specify which side or sides you want a curb.
These are generally used to replace tile shower bases. They are also great for larger showers or showers with angles.
A Tile- Ready Shower Base/ Shower Pan is a pre-made base that is designed to have ceramic tile installed on the top of the base as the finished floor. It is a self-contained base that has a drain pocket, the proper slope and a flange on the sides that don’t have a curb. Some bases have the curb built-in. This costs a little more but is worth the money.
It’s a time saver and it assures a leak-proof installation. Their shower pan / bases are some of the best on the market. A tile shower base is tricky for the do-it-yourselfer, but this makes it about as easy as it gets. A Built-On-Site Tile Base is time consuming and tricky. If you have never built a tile base from scratch, I would recommend leaving it to the professionals. This is my least favorite shower base system – probably because my company has torn out hundreds of them, and every one of them had a leak. There are many better options today.
If this is your choice, my advice would be to hire the best tile setter you can find and hope it never leaks. Standard precast, custom precast, and tile ready shower pan / bases have very similar installation procedures. Before installing any shower pan / base, there are a few things you should check. 1) The floor must be solid. Check out the floor joists and make sure there is no water damage, insect infestation, or mold. If the subfloor shows no sign of water damage but feels squishy underfoot, add another layer of subfloor to strengthen it.
2) The floor must also be level left to right and front to back for the base to drain properly. If it’s not level you will need to do some carpentry work to get it leveled. If the floor is slightly out of level, you can use a fast setting floor leveling compound. 3) You should check the drain. If it is galvanized pipe, this would be a good time to change it to PVC (plastic). Check the location of the drain on the floor against the location of the drain pocket on the shower base. Do they line up?
If not you must change the location of the drain line. If you are replacing a shower pan / base, I highly recommend that you use a pre-cast base because it is easier to install and the chances for a leak are greatly reduced. Most pre-cast bases come in standard sizes. Measure your shower floor to see if it will accept a standard shower base and drain location. If not, you’ll have to order a custom base.
Installing a Standard Precast Base, Custom Pre-cast, and Tile Ready Base: If your floor is structurally sound and level, you are ready to install your shower base (or shower pan). I would suggest that you dry fit (install without adhesive) your shower base to make sure your base fits properly and the drain lines up. Once you have done your dry fit, you are ready to set the base permanently.
Most manufacturers suggest using either a thin-set compound or silicone adhesive to set the base to the floor. Read the manufactures directions to make sure you set the base correctly. Thin-set can be used as an adhesive and it also gives support to the base where it is the weakest, the drain pocket.
Some bases are considered self-leveling so no additional support is required. If a shower base is self-leveled, silicone may be the only adhesive required. Once the thin-set or silicone sets the base should not move. Some manufacturers suggest you screw the base in place by installing screws through the tile flange into the studs. I would be very cautious of this.
If the screw is pulled too tightly against the framing, it could stress-crack the base or twist it. This could cause it to be pulled out of level and not drain properly. If you are installing a tile ready shower base, you have one more step. You have to install the ceramic tile on the shower base as the finished floor. Once you have installed the tile and grouted it you will have a beautiful tile floor that will never leak. What Type of Shower Base Should You Use? By Replacing your shower base?
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There are many different types of shower bases, and each of them come with their own pros and cons. Some of them make easy DIY projects, and some of them should not be attempted by amateurs. Read on and I’ll walk you through the different types of bases, price levels, pros and cons, and installation tips to help you choose the right shower base for your home. Pre-cast Shower Base comes in various shapes and sizes and are ready to install. Neo angle bases are made to fit in a corner. They come with a curb or curbs, tile flanges and a built-in drain pocket. These are easy to install for the do-it-yourselfer.
They are available in many different materials. Some manufacturers will make a custom pre-cast base to fit most any size, shape and drain location. For instance a 60 x 32 shower base is the same size as a standard bathtub and the drain location can be left or right. Note: Read manufacturer’s installation instructions thoroughly before installing.
The entire success of your project depends on a good installation of the base. Do not install pre-cast bases out of level. Most manufacturers require some type of fast setting cement to be installed under the belly of the base for added support. What every pre-cast base must have:. Adequate slope: There must be adequate slope from all points of the perimeter towards the drain to allow water to flow into the drain. The recommended minimum is ¼” slope for every 12” of length. Tip: water test before installing.
Tile flange: This assures a watertight seal where the wall surround meets the base. A flange should be located on all non-curbed sides of a base. It is about 1/2” tall, and the wall material is installed over top of the flange. Slip resistance: For safety, the bottom or shower floor should not be slick but must have some texture to give some resistance. A surface that is easy to clean: Some manufacturers have rough, slip resistant floors that collect soap scum and are hard to keep clean.
A good warranty: Keep in mind, if your base fails, the walls will have to be torn out to replace it. Acrylic Shower Base is made by thermo-forming acrylic over a fiberglass substrate. Pros: Acrylic is lightweight, non porous, easy to clean and comes in a variety of sizes and colors. Acrylic is a very tough and durable man made plastic. Corian counter tops are made of acrylic as are airplane windshields, skylights, and outdoor signs. The color goes the whole way through the material so if you do scratch the surface, it will not be a different color.
Light scratches and blemishes can be buffed out with a polish. The gloss finish will last a lifetime and can be repaired.
Cons: Certain cleaners are caustic and will cause significant damage to the finish. Often, this type of surface damage is not repairable. Acrylic is more expensive than fiberglass. Fiberglass Shower Base is a fiberglass substrate with a sprayed-on gel-coat finish. Pros: Fiberglass is lightweight and less expensive. It has an attractive gloss finish.
Cons: There are not as many choices for sizes and colors. Fiberglass has a thin gel coat finish which is sprayed on.
The thickness of the finish may not be consistent and the color is only as deep as the gel coat. A scratch may show a different color than the finish. Over a period of time the finish tends to wear and stain.
Once it is stained, it is difficult to clean. Solid Surface Shower Base is made of different composites. It can be cast or compression molded.
If you are looking for this type of shower base, the most important consideration is the reputation of the company and the warranty. Swanstone is a good example of a solid surface base. Pros: Solid surface means the material is consistent throughout and the finish is not sprayed on. Solid surface is sturdier than acrylic or fiberglass. Some are manufactured to standard sizes and some are custom made sizes.
How To Install A Fiberglass Shower PanInstalling Shower Pan On Concrete
Cons: These bases are usually more expensive but are worth the extra money Allow adequate lead time and take measurements carefully. Solid surfaces bases may take up to 6 weeks or more to get. Since they are made to your exact measurements, they cannot be returned.
Cultured Marble Shower Base is a man-made composite consisting of crushed limestone and resin (high-tech glue). The finish is a gel coat. It is sprayed on and air hardens. The finish can resemble real marble or not. Pros: It has a luxurious, high gloss look and is resistant to most shampoos, soaps, hair dyes, and make-up but it will scratch easily.
Many design configurations and sizes are available. Color choices range from solid colors to marble and granite patterns. Typically you would purchase these from a local manufacturer. Cons: Cultured marble is heavy.
It can chip easily but it can be repaired. Lighter colors can yellow after a period of time. Some bases do not have a tile flange. I would not recommend any shower base without a tile flange because this system relies on a caulk joint to seal the joint. If the caulking shrinks or separates, water will get behind the surround.
Custom Tile Shower Base can be built from scratch or can be built from a kit that makes it easier for a do-it-yourselfer. A custom tile base is time consuming and can be tedious. If you are not handy and have limited patience, use a precast base. These bases are made by framing the outline of the shower base with standard 2 x 4 construction. Then the plumber installs the drain and the shower base liner. At this point many municipalities require an inspection.
Tip: apply for your permit before you start the job. Now, the tricky part is pouring the base. The cement base must be poured and worked so that there is adequate slope towards the drain. The cement must set for several days before you can start to set the tile. Tip: Use a tile that has texture for a slip-resistant floor. This process must be done with great care. If you have a leak, the whole base has to be torn out.
A large percentage of the tile shower bases my company has torn-out, were leaking. Pros:You can make any size or shape you want.
This type of base is totally customizable. There are literally thousands of tile patterns and colors to choose from. One-of-a-kind designer looks are inexpensive and can be put together with stock tiles.
Cons: This system is not do-it-yourself friendly – especially folding the corners of the liner. If don’t have experience, enlist the help of a tile contractor. You have to get this one right the first time.
Installing A Shower Pan Liner
Tile showers are prone to leaking and leaks can go undetected for years. Grout can crack allowing water to seep in.
It is porous, making it difficult to clean, so it should be sealed often. Tile Shower Base Pan is one piece with integrated drains and tile flanges or splash walls. They are leak proof, have the proper slope built-in and are easy to install. This base would be best described as a pre-cast base, which after installation is ready to have tile installed in the base.
It is a great time saver and insures a leak proof installation. Barrier Free or Walk-in Shower Base are available in pre-cast and custom tile bases.
They are designed to allow a person in a wheel chair or with limited leg mobility to enter the shower with easy access. They have a minimal curb or are “curb-less” which allows the wheel chair to roll over and enter the shower.
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